London's South Bank – A Favorite Walk
By Joan Cassie
Emerging from the Orwellian depths of Westminster Underground Station you are immediately struck by the beauty of the surrounding buildings ancient and modern and also by the majesty of the Thames flowing under Westminster Bridge down towards the sea.
The sonnet by William Wordsworth sums up the panorama – he wrote this early one morning when leaving London and it still resonates with residents and visitors alike:
Earth has not anything to show more fair:
Dull would he be of soul who could pass by
A sight so touching in its majesty:
This City now doth like a garment wear
The beauty of the morning: silent, bare,
Ships, towers, domes, theatres, and temples lie
Open unto the fields, and to the sky,
All bright and glittering in the smokeless air.
Never did sun more beautifully steep
In his first splendour valley, rock, or hill;
Ne'er saw I, never felt, a calm so deep!
The river glideth at his own sweet will:
Dear God! the very houses seem asleep;
And all that mighty heart is lying still!
An awe inspiring City!
With the Houses of Parliament and Big Ben towering over us - we wonder at the spectacle and slowly make our way over the bridge jostled by camera clicking tourists. No wonder they want to capture the views to take home to show their friends. What must it be like to see this sight for the first time!
Descending down the steps on the south side of the river there is the old County Hall which is now apartments, an art gallery, hotel and restaurant. Under this imposing building is the London Aquarium which children and adults alike will enjoy – walking under the water and seeing sharks swimming so close that you almost think you can touch them sends a thrill down the spine.
Towering over Jubilee Gardens is the London Eye – the views from this are breathtaking and you feel like you are flying over London. The queues snake away to your right and booking is advisable but if you are lucky and pick the right time you will only have a thirty minute wait.
Time for People watching
On the riverside walk there are mime artists of every kind – silvered statues that do not blink but suddenly move and scare the children making them run back to their parents giggling and laughing. People dressed as bike-riding frogs; men without heads; girls dressed as pretty maidens hiding behind fans. Large groups of people cluster round the performers and jugglers dropping coins into hats as they go.
Under the railway bridge flanked by the two new pedestrian crossings you come to The Royal Festival Hall which provides for the cultural appetite of visitors and the restaurants on the bankside provide for the physical appetite.
Under this imposing edifice is a secret place for young lads showing off their skateboarding skills to an ever appreciative crowd. This is an urban space with graffiti covered walls and the dark atmosphere is added to by the loud rap music from a ghetto blaster. The boys try to remain cool and not acknowledge the shouts and applause but you can see their pride just bursting out.
Passing under Waterloo Bridge you come to a book market laid out in front of the National Film Theatre where young and old rub shoulders looking for bargains or trying to find their favorite novels.
Next comes the National Theatre and it is worth popping in to see what is on and if you can get tickets at the last minute.
Views down the river give you a glimpse of the City of London with the dome of St. Paul’s dominating the skyline. The heart of the mighty city looks tranquil and covers the frenetic business of the wheeling and dealing of the financial markets of the world.
Somewhere to stop, look around, rest and eat
Suddenly there is an area going off to the right with boutique shops and trendy pizzerias abounding – this is worth a detour if you are looking for unusual gifts and it is always buzzing with life. It is also a good place to eat with a family and prices are reasonable but if you are feeling rich then going up to the eighth floor of the Oxo Tower, the next warehouse building you encounter, is well worth it for the views alone as you can see over South London to Crystal Palace or down the river to the Gherkin and skyscrapers of the city area. This is not a cheap place to eat but it is “The” place to eat if you wish to spoil yourself. This is always our special goal after walking from Westminster – a walk which takes in some of the most beautiful views of London.
By Joan Cassie
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