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Particularly fond of music myself I like to think that I was able to develop a reasonably good musical taste. An “Eclectic” I could say I am, which means that I listen to Verdi, Mozart, Mascagni together with Benny Goodman, Christopher Cross, Paul McCartney, Abba and Ravi Shankar, remember him?

But I am from Buenos Aires. A “Porteño” as we say here. A large part of my heart and soul exudes Tango. That is something that words can hardly explain and you have to live here yourself to understand.

Why?

Why? Tango is music, but also a dance - a form of poetry and a tool for seduction. It has no match in the world. You may find some of its passion in the Spanish Flamenco. You can find some of its beauty and sadness in blues, but once you listen to a Tango melody you realise that nothing really compares to it.

This music is embedded in the cobbles of our streets. In our old port, la Boca. it lives in the smell of the honeysuckle and the warm evenings under the vines. It lives in the radio of a taxi and at the table of an old cafeteria while talking with a friend. And it lives in the mystical magic of a bandoneon chanting its notes under the moonlight.

Our music came from Argentina and became famous at the beginning of the last century. From its humble birth in brothels it ended up at the most distinguished scenarios in Paris and New York.

To our amazement, Tango attracts the interest of people from all around the world now more than ever before. People like Robert Duvall developed an incredible passion for this music (and got married with a local tango dancer, by the way) and he spends part of his life in this city, now in love not only with the music but with other aspects of our life as well.

To Begin . . .

An approach to Tango could start with a visit to one of the many excellent Tango shows available in the city - very good food, wine and live music. This is, nowadays, almost a rule for any visitor touching down in Buenos Aires.

But, if you are looking for a closer approach, then you need to attend a Milonga. Milonga is, in simple words, a place for the gathering of local Tango fans. Something very much like the Flamenco Tablaos in Madrid.

Milongas are not fancy places created for wealthy visitors and they do not offer superb meals and wines. However, these are the places that someone looking for the real thing should not miss. A “Milonga” can be located in a church basement, a cafeteria, a club and in any other place - from basic halls to luxurious saloons with incredible old fashioned architecture.

The evening usually starts with a very simple meal, perhaps empanadas and vino tinto (meat pies and red wine) and just the music playing in the background.

Slowly the place becomes more and more crowded and your eyes begin to open wide to see the transformation taking place around you. People, like ghosts from other times, will take their places at the tables in preparation for what is to come. The noise and atmosphere builds as the moon begins to rise.

Shining Dancing Shoes

You start to notice the appearance of people. Men wearing immaculate suits; cufflinks, dancing shoes shining like mirrors, hair gel, perfectly pressed trousers and starched shirts, old fashioned jewelry such as fob watches with gold chains and rings, and women with wonderful (sometimes old fashioned) dresses, high heels, silk scarves, perfect hairdo, make up and perfume.

Suddenly, like obeying some unspoken order or signal, everybody starts to move to the dance floor and it seems as if a scene from some ancient time is taking shape in front of your eyes. It is easy to feel that you are in watching a ghostly picture. It can’t possibly be something from the present and yet it is there and you are part of it.

As couples start to dance you realize for the first time the expressions on their faces, the exquisite position of their hands, fingers and elbows and the seemingly distant look of their eyes. Bodies barely touching but, even if you know nothing about Tango, you can sense that there is an unspoken language being exchanged between those dancers. You don’t know what they say but you feel their passion and sensuality as they move on the floor.

You might spend hours just looking at these people dance but at some point, sooner than later, you wish that you had the ability to do the same and be moving on the dancing floor yourself - and you can, of course, you can.

Daniel Oscar Licata

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