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The Alternative Prague

The Alternative Prague

By Lyn Funnell

The city of Prague is a multi-national medley. English-looking park areas are surrounded by buildings that could be in Alicante or Murcia.

The riverbank architecture is distinctly Parisian. Then, below the Charles Bridge, is Venice, with flats towering over narrow canals. Add a dash of Germany, a sprinkling of Holland and a touch of Deauville, Boulogne, and even London, mix well for several centuries, and, voila, Prague!

It’s hard to imagine that some of it is eight centuries old as it’s so well-preserved. They really have a long and varied history which shows in their architecture and culture.


A great way to get around

We travelled around on the marvellous tram system. We never had to wait for more than five minutes. The hotel sold tickets and we bought 24 hour tickets. This gave us the opportunity to travel with the locals and see different parts of the city.

Mixed up in a protest

On our first evening there, the tram stopped for a while and we heard the sound of shouting and police sirens. Glad to have a chance to speak English, the man next to us, who’d been talking on his phone, told us that there was a protest march going on but we had nothing to worry about.  This was Wenceslas Square, the man waved goodbye and got off the tram, followed by us, and and we noticed that he went over to join the crowd. A couple of policemen chatted to each other and casually glanced at the protestors. It was all very peaceful and well-organised. So we went on our way.

Visiting the Jewish Quarter

I expected the Jewish Quarter to be my idea of a ghetto; narrow streets and rough, run-down houses. But of course, the Jews were very wealthy before the war and had occupied the best area in town. The roads are wide and the houses are terraced mansions. We forget that this whole area was fenced off by the Germans and the Jews were forced to live isolation in the most terrible conditions.

We visited the Jewish Museum which was terribly moving. It’s an old synagogue and most of the walls are neatly painted with the names of the murdered victims. This stark reminder brings home the terrible loss of life.  There is a display of the children’s drawings, and you don’t need a degree in psychiatry to translate their meanings. It was one of the most moving things I’ve ever seen in my life.

Prague's largest market

Several miles outside Prague’s away from the tourist area, across the river, is an undiscovered delight. It’s Prague’s largest market, stretching out over a huge area, on a permanent site. It sells everything  and I mean everything, you can buy clothes, shoes, fruit and veg, knuckle dusters, Ninja stars, replica guns, food, furniture. The whole works.

Places to eat with a difference

As all seasoned travellers know, the best places to eat good cheap snacks are where the market traders eat. There was a huge choice of stalls, cafes and restaurants. We had one of the tastiest meals that I’ve ever had, with a large glass of beer and a mulled wine. And we had change from £8. We could even have had a vodka for less than a £1.

This bargain-hunter’s dream of a market was practically deserted. By midday the men gave up working and gathered in groups to play cards, while the women desperately tried to sell us something, drastically dropping prices. Where is it? OK, I’ll tell you if you promise not to tell anyone! Take the No 3 tram and stay on it to Holesvice in Prague 7. It crosses the river, then turns up a hill, and you’ll see the market on your left.

Back in the city

There is so much to see - beautiful squares which cater to the cafe culture. Small shops filled with Swarovski Crystal and jewellery made of garnets which echoed back to another era.

The cathedral  perched on top of a hill overlooking the city is worth visiting and the view is not to be missed. A walk down is worth the effort as it gives you fantastic vistas over the city and the Charles Bridge with its many statues which is the main thoroughfare that joins the two parts of the city.

Coffee and cake anyone?

We loved the hot mulled wine, sold outside most bars and restaurants. We walked around, sipping it out of plastic cups. Very warming. And, oh, the coffee and cakes! My poor yo-yo-ing body, that puts on a couple of pounds if it sniffs a chocolate bar, thoroughly enjoyed it, then protested (almost) loudly! Oh well, I probably walked it off again.

We had a very good meal in a bar/restaurant near our hotel, out of the town centre and there is a fantastic choice of menus to suit all tastes and pockets.  Luxury dining is available but there are great little hidden bistros that cater to the less well off.

Our hotel was on a boat

Our hotel, the Botel Racek, was obviously once a cruise boat. I loved it. It’s permanently fixed to the river bed. The only sound was the ducks outside our porthole. I fed half a dozen ducks and three swans one night, and the next morning when I opened the curtains, they were all looking up at the window and started shouting when they saw me!

The bar and restaurant had lovely views and a good menu, and it was peaceful at night, even though we were next to the main road.

What’s my opinion of Prague?

It’s a great city to visit for a break. I felt very safe there, and everything works well. English isn’t spoken everywhere, and it’s not spoken fluently but they make such an effort to make you welcome.

Would I go back there? Certainly - I enjoyed my three days there, and I would recommend it to my friends

    Prague Bridges 301 Prague Night 300 Prague River 302 All images by kind permission of www.PragueExperience.com

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