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. . . / A Father and Son’s Trek to Peru

A long and steep climb

Day 4 - As we started our trek we were excited to see a ruin of an Inca site high up on the edge of the mountain in front of us. The word soon spread that our lunch was up there. It was going to be a long and steep climb to get there and en route we stopped to look and catch our breath at the waterfalls which cascaded down the hillside. Eventually, after more hard climbing, we reached the ruins of Perol Nyoc. We had climbed 1,000 feet in the morning, and a further 700 feet in the afternoon and this brought us to the Inca terraces at Cormarca where our tents were all ready prepared for us.

On the way we came across a Peruvian man and his children busking and dancing for us miles from anywhere. It was already dusk by the time we reached the camp site where we were joined by a group of children from another school who also received pens etc. -  after that the children entertained us with traditional songs.

Day 5 - We had been warned this would be the hardest part of the trek and we literally walked, except for short essential stops and lunch, for eleven out of the twelve hours of daylight. Our camp at Cormarca was at 3700m or just over 12,000ft. We climbed a further 750m or 2400ft first to the Charca Huaylla Pass and then further on to the Chanca Chuco Pass at 4450m (almost 14,500ft), the highest point on our journey. There were some breathtaking sights and we were pleased with our achievements.

During dinner we were told that there could possibly be a frost over night so we all tucked ourselves into our sleeping bags and hoped we would be warm enough. In the morning we found everywhere covered with a crisp white frost. We watched the effects of the sun rise as the shadow on the mountains around us got lower and soon the camp site was bathed in sunshine. It was breathtaking and view that we will remember for always. The frost on the tents soon melted whilst we prepared for the day ahead and we all sat down for breakfast al fresco followed by our stretching exercises before continuing our trek. These were essential at the beginning and end of each day to try to minimise the stiffness that the tough exercise could provoke.

Magnificent scenery and scorpions

Days 6 & 7 - The next two days walking were over undulating ground but we made an overall steady decent of about 1000m along the beautiful sacred valley crossing the river several times on tree-trunk bridges. Most of the time the snow capped mountain, known in English as the ‘Sacred Tear’, was in front of us. The scenery had changed but was still magnificent - with more trees and a few butterflies and flowers.

By lunch-time we had arrived at our camp at Camicancha next to another school and river. One or two brave souls did freshen up in the ice melt river water followed by a football match at 4.00 o’clock between our group and our Peruvian helpers. This seemed to be a regular event on these treks and was played on the school playground. We narrowly won the match and then found out this was the first time the Peruvians had lost. You can imagine how pleased we were.

The following morning, we went back to the school where the children lined up, and after some songs, we presented them with the last of the pens and paper. Continuing our decent we passed cacti and a small eucalyptus forest; the area becoming more agricultural, and then came to our final camp site at Piscaycucho. This was of a higher standard where a few tents were erected inside thatched shelters. We were fortunate to arrive here early and so we selected one of these for the night. There was a dining area and a separate block with showers! What luxury! On the down side we did have to look out for the local scorpions. These were black and we did see some but they were only about half an inch long. We were still warned to check our boots as they could give quite a nip!

The Magic

Day 8 - After breakfast, a short walk brought us to the river with a suspension bridge and crossing it we came to the primitive railway station at kilometre 82. We bypassed many of the Inca Trails as we travelled by the train that would take us to the highlight of our trek and alighted at kilometre 104.  Here we started climbing again round the back of Machu Picchu, first seeing a small Inca ruin and then the magnificent site of Huina Huayna. After a further steep climb the path brought us by late afternoon to the Sun Gate entrance to Machu Picchu where from this high position we got a wonderful view over the main site.  The magic wove its way into our hearts and brains.  There was the long dreamed of and read about ruins laid out before us.

Time was short so we had to make our way right down into the ruins, taking a few photos as we went. We then had steep coach ride round 14 hairpin bends into Aguas Calientes where we had accommodation in a hostel.

That night we had a gala dinner at a local restaurant after which we continued to celebrate our achievements at a local bar till the early hours. Early the following morning it was back up the hairpin bends to Machu Picchu again for a conducted tour of the site and then we were left to do further exploration on our own. Lunch was back at Aguas Calientes before an afternoon train journey back to Cuzco.

A final Peruvian Blessing

Whilst waiting for the train a condor flew overhead and we felt that it was wishing us well and giving us its blessing. It was dark by the time we got to Cuzco, so we had a quick snack and an early night before our long trip home.

It had been a wonderful trip and we would have our photographs to remind us of our experience.  It had been hard but well worth it.  We had seen so much and carried home so many wonderful memories. 

Gerald Cooke

For more information about SSAFA Forces Help: www.ssafa.org.uk

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